ARTEMÓNAS , fifteen minutes south of Apollonía on foot, is worth a morning's exploration for its churches and elegant Venetian and Neoclassical houses alone. Panayía Gourniá (the key is kept next door) has vivid frescoes; the clustered-dome church of Kohí was built over an ancient temple of Artemis (also the basis of the village's name); and seventeenth-century Áyios Yeóryios contains fine icons. Artemónas is also the point of departure for Herónissos , an isolated hamlet with two tavernas and a few potteries behind a deeply indented, rather bleak bay at the northwestern tip of the island. There's a motorable dirt track there and occasional boat trips from Kamáres, though these are only worth the effort on calm days.
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