Cradled by rugged mountains and surrounded by a patchwork of citrus groves and vineyards, the sleepy town of Polis has managed to doze through the construction boom that's transformed much of the south coast. The town's whitewashed sugar cube houses, plump Orthodox Church domes and shady courtyards are a reminder of a Cyprus that's fast disappearing and much of Polis' charm lies in watching local life tick slowly by. However, it's unlikely that Polis will remain 'undiscovered' for long and it won't be long before the chirruping of cicadas is replaced with ringing of cash registers.
Polis first made it into the guidebooks in the 1980s as a backpacker haunt and today it's one of the few places that still caters for independent travellers. The town huddles round a central plaza that hosts a colourful daily market showcasing the best local produce. At sunset the market stalls are replaced with restaurant tables piled high with platefuls of meze and fresh local fish.
Once you've visited the archaeological museum and had a look at the medieval frescoes daubed on the walls of St Andronikos Church then it's time to explore some of Cyprus ' least spoiled countryside. The nearby Akamas Peninsular is an untouched wilderness laced with hiking trails and secluded coves bitten form the pink rock. Offshore the waters are a glassy mosaic of greens and blues that promise some of the best snorkelling and diving on the island. Unfortunately the peninsula's fate hangs in the balance and developers and conservationists seem to be continually at loggerheads. However, the good news is that most tourists don't get much further than the Baths of Aphrodite (where the goddess of love, and desire, performed her mythical ablutions), which leaves the rest of the peninsular free for walking and mountain biking.
Back in town it's only a question of time until you succumb to Polis' soporific allure and begin to understand what is meant by the local boast that 'Cypriots from across the island come to Polis to remind themselves of exactly what it means to be Cypriot'.
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